February 27, 2025 · Sebastian Graf
Unveiling the Perfumer - Live Event!

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,
It’s happening! We’ve set the time and place for the official kick-off of our first fragrance — shaped by the community. March 6th, 8 PM CET, online (1-hour call). We’ll reveal the perfumer behind this creation and take the first steps in bringing the scent to life — live, transparent and interactive. Share your associations and scent ideas for the theme; if your suggestion is chosen, you’ll receive the final fragrance for free when it launches.
🗓️ Contents of this Issue
- Note Worthy: Smart Scent, Domino’s Fragrance, and Declutter
- Strictly Independent: Notes de Bas de Paje
- Quiz: How many brands are at Esxence 2025?
- Scent MythBusters: All ageing in perfumery is marketing hype
Note-Worthy 🔎🌸
#SMARTSCENTTECH: Estée Lauder partners with Exuud on Soliqaire, a biodegradable, plant-based system that controls scent release — enhancing customisation, consistency and sustainability.
#PEPPERONIPASSION: Domino’s spices up Valentine’s Day with Eau de Passion, a pepperoni-inspired perfume of smoky, spicy and woody notes — tapping the rising trend of food-driven fragrances. Could umami perfumes be the next frontier?
#FRAGRANCEDECLUTTER: The fragrance boom has led to massive collections — and now perfume lovers are downsizing. Influencers embrace “declutter hauls” and fragrance swaps, questioning overconsumption fuelled by social media hype.
Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 — Notes de Bas de Paje
Notes de Bas de Paje treats scent like the margins of a book — details that deepen the story. Founded in France by Pierre-Junior and Alice, the brand turns fleeting moments into olfactory footnotes. Scents: 3.
Olatua — Summer That Never Ends. Salty air, coconut wax and sun-warmed skin: ylang-ylang and white musk with black pepper and vetiver. Perfumer: Elia Chiche.
Prolégomènes — A Prelude to Possibility. A green bench by the Seine in spring: bergamot and fig milk with a warm vetiver-ambroxan finish. Perfumer: Amélie Bourgeois.
Towédé — A Tale of Two Worlds. Nutmeg and cinnamon’s fiery spice with sandalwood and cashmeran — wild yet refined. Perfumer: Margaux Le Paih-Guérin.
Quiz 🎲
How many brands are exhibiting at Esxence 2025?
198 · 271 · 378 · 441
Scent MythBusters 🎭️
“All ageing in perfumery is marketing hype.”
Myth of the week
TL;DR
Not all fragrance materials age well, but some do improve before being used in a composition. Oud, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver and ambergris develop smoother, richer profiles over time, while most citrus and floral materials degrade quickly. The key is knowing which ingredients benefit from ageing — and why.
Examples that prove ageing works
Oud: oxidation softens barnyard notes, revealing leather, spice and honey. Sandalwood: ageing enhances creaminess. Patchouli: harsh terpenes fade, leaving earthy, cocoa-like depth. Vetiver: develops smokier, nuttier complexity. Ambergris: cures over decades into a radiant, musky aura.
Where ageing fails
Citrus oils lose their sparkle and turn rancid; florals generally flatten; many synthetics remain stable, so ageing has little effect. Finished perfumes rarely age well after bottling.
Why this matters
Understanding which materials improve with age — and which don’t — separates genuine craftsmanship from marketing fluff. Ask whether “aged for decades” refers to the raw material before formulation, or is just a selling point.
