← Scently Speaking

March 28, 2025 · Sebastian Graf

Meet the First AI Perfume Brand

Meet the First AI Perfume Brand

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

On March 6th, more than 20 participants from the Scently Community joined a live kickoff where we introduced our first perfumer, Chester Gibs, and explored the theme of our debut fragrance: Reflection. Our reader Anna set up a Spotify Reflection Playlist to accompany Chester’s process. And our publishing house now has a name — it won’t be Scently Speaking, that much we can say.

Summary: Association with Reflection

For the next few weeks, Scently Speaking will land every two weeks instead of weekly, as our deep dive into building the publishing house demands more focus.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

  1. Note Worthy: Brazil’s boom, AI Brand, and Accessible Beauty
  2. Strictly Independent: Mark Buxton — Freedom Collection
  3. Quiz: Vulgar flower
  4. Scent MythBusters: The first sniff tells you everything — or does it?

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

#BRAZILSCENTWAVE: Brazil’s perfume scene is booming beyond tropical clichés. As the world’s second-largest market, niche brands and Middle Eastern-inspired scents are rising fast — syrupy vanilla, bright chypres and bold oud blends reshape local tastes, while Gen Z drives genderless trends.

#FIRSTAIBRAND: Osmo’s Generation is a data-driven scent revolution. Using Olfactory Intelligence, Osmo converts text and images into fragrance formulas, debuting with Glossine, Fractaline and Quasarine — led by Christophe Laudamiel and Florence Bagneris.

#ACCESSIBLEBEAUTY: Inclusivity in beauty is evolving beyond shade ranges — accessibility is the next frontier. With 70 million U.S. adults reporting a disability, brands like Tilt Beauty (adaptive packaging), Olive & June and Rare Beauty are responding. The 2025 SeeMe Inclusivity Index reveals 22% of beauty brands now consider disability, double 2023.

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 — Mark Buxton Freedom Collection

Mark Buxton’s Freedom Collection is a bold statement — uncompromising, boundary-breaking and deeply personal, designed by him and David Chieze. We experienced them at Esxence 2025 and were struck by their fearless originality. Scents: 6.

Mi ConfesiónMi Confesión — A Whisper in the Smoke. CO2 rum and saffron over honeyed davana, spiced tobacco and Bulgarian rose, deepened by labdanum, oud, sandalwood and amber. Perfumer: Mark Buxton.

I WantI Want — The Desire Manifesto. A chypre reborn: blackcurrant and red berries, green apple and rhubarb, a floral heart of tuberose, jasmine and magnolia over patchouli, vetiver, cashmere woods and oud. Perfumer: Mark Buxton.

To BreakTo Break — Shattered Expectations. Crisp green apple and bergamot with pineapple and clove, magnolia and iris, a storm of ambrette and ambergris grounded by sandalwood and cedar. Perfumer: Mark Buxton.

FreeFree — The Incense Rebellion. A hymn to incense: cool bergamot and black pepper crashing into labdanum and benzoin, frankincense at its core softened by vanilla and patchouli. Perfumer: David Chieze.

Quiz 🎲

Which floral note has historically been perceived as “vulgar” due to its heady, indolic intensity?
Lilac · Narcissus · Tuberose · Jasmine Sambac

Scent MythBusters 🎭️

“The first sniff tells you everything.”
Myth of the week

TL;DR

That first intoxicating sniff might not be the full story. Top notes vanish within minutes, olfactory fatigue kicks in, and memories shape how we experience scent over time. A fragrance that once felt like a masterpiece can suddenly seem underwhelming, while a slow-burner might turn into an obsession.

Why first impressions mislead

Top notes are just the opening act — light citrus and herbs are gone within 20 minutes, leaving the heart and base. Your nose gets bored fast — olfactory adaptation filters out familiar scents. Scent = memory = emotion — the same perfume smells incredible on vacation and “meh” on a stressful Monday.

Why the myth persists

Fragrance shopping is fast-paced; retailers craft top notes to seduce you instantly. Impulse buys feel good until they don’t. We expect consistency, but scent isn’t static — heat, skin chemistry and mood all change how a fragrance wears.