The Fragrance Retail Mafia

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

You’ve spoken, and we’re making it happen. We’re creating a fragrance in public with one of the industry’s rising-star perfumers — and you get to help shape it. Mid-to-late February we reveal the theme; a live session gathers your inspirations; the perfumer and our team craft the briefing; and if your idea is chosen, your name is credited in the final release.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Lost formulas, smell training, and the new Tom Ford
2. Strictly Independent: Ephemeral Dyadic
3. Quiz: Selling star in Africa
4. Scent MythBusters: When it comes to big-box retail, great juice always wins

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

#SCENTREFORMULATIONS: Miguel Matos on Fragrantica sheds light on IFRA restrictions, lost formulas and ageing. Reformulations often alter classics — Chanel No. 5 keeps its identity while Dior’s Poison falters. Preserving olfactory heritage remains a complex challenge.

#FOLLOWYOURNOSE: The Guardian’s Jonas Olofsson explores how smell profoundly influences memory, emotion and well-being. Smell training can boost cognition, reduce stress and improve mental health — and “smell-walking” fosters deeper connections to places.

#NEWTOMFORD: Tom Ford introduces John David Washington as the face of its new fragrance, Bois Pacifique — a woody scent of sandalwood, cedar, oakwood, cardamom, akigalawood and turmeric.

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 — Ephemeral Dyadic

Ephemeral Dyadic emerges from Istanbul’s indie art scene, crafting 100% synthetic fragrances that focus on the fleeting and intimate. Founded by Sinan Saül. Scents: 8.

Another World. Inky black pepper and an enigmatic ink accord into a green, resinous heart of pine, with cedarwood and white musk.

Dark Dreams. Geranium and saffron balanced by mandarin and bergamot, with a striking gasoline accord adding a gritty, urban edge.

Liquid Skin. Smoky labdanum and earthy nagarmotha warmed by red cinnamon, anchored by vetiver and dried tobacco.

Ozymandias. Bright elemi and black pepper into resinous labdanum and soft cashmere wood, with amber and vanilla — the grandeur and decay of forgotten empires.

Quiz 🎲

Which brand isn’t the market leader at home but became the selling star in Africa?
Amouage · Narciso Rodriguez · Natura · Swiss Arabian

Scent MythBusters 🎭️

“When it comes to big-box retail, great juice always wins.”
Myth of the week

TL;DR

Large chains, department stores and duty-free operators favour brands with significant marketing budgets and consistent packaging, leaving little room for artisanal labels. Outstanding scent alone rarely cuts through these pay-to-play systems.

The retail “mafia” problem

Pay-to-play: steep display and “marketing partnership” fees. Bottle aesthetics: flashy, mainstream-friendly designs demanded. Distribution gatekeepers: preferred distributors lock up shelf space. Even brilliant fragrances remain in boutique or online niches.

Workarounds for indie brands

Boutique partnerships and concept stores; online platforms like Luckyscent or brand webshops; and fairs and pop-ups (Esxence, Pitti Fragranze) that connect small brands with aficionados and press.