July 27, 2024 · Sebastian Graf
The Smell of a Tiger's Roar

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,
Did you know? Deepscent, a Seoul startup, offers “Fragrance as a Service” — customise up to 256 home fragrance combinations in real-time.
🗓️ Contents of this Issue
- Note Worthy: Coconut, Scent Tourism, House of Naturals
- Story: The Smell of a Tiger’s Roar
- Quiz: How well do you know Cypriol?
- Raw Materials: Cypriol (Nagarmotha)
Note-Worthy 🔎🌸
Coconut fragrances have strong momentum with many niche launches. Oman and Amouage are collaborating on “Fragrance Tourism,” producing high-quality frankincense responsibly. And Givaudan’s House of Naturals aims to produce the most sustainable natural fine-fragrance materials.
Story: Anjali Vandemark 🐅🌸

An interview with Anjali Vandemark, founder of Anjali Perfumes. Her journey began during a winter in London, where homesickness and the sound of a cuckoo bird transported her to India’s summers, igniting a passion for scent memories.
Himalayan Dawn — inspired by Bhutan, the Tiger’s Nest Monastery and crossing a cold glacier river. Fresh, citrusy, herbal and woody: neroli, bergamot, verbena; black tea, fir needle, chamomile; sandalwood, jasmine sambac, Bulgarian rose, Haitian vetiver. She used fennel and cardamom (from her Indian heritage) for coolness without typical citrus.
Tiger Bright — inspired by tiger reserves near Nagpur. Woody and spicy: orange; jasmine sambac, patchouli, nagarmotha, iris; cedarwood, Indian vetiver and sandalwood, tobacco, amber, leather; with a spice accord of black pepper, cloves, coriander and turmeric. “I understand the fundamentals, master the craft, then express my vision.” She uses ~400 materials, tying each scent to a story or drawing.
Raw Materials: Cypriol (Nagarmotha) 🌿
Cypriol (Cyperus scariosus), or Nagarmotha, is derived from roots and has a warm, woody, earthy aroma compared to vetiver and oud. Native to India (Madhya Pradesh), also Nepal, Sri Lanka and Indonesia; ~$50–150/kg. A base note in ambery and woody perfumes. Goldstandard: Parfums de Marly Herod, Frédéric Malle Promise, Andy Tauer Sundowner.
