Scently's Publishing House Manifesto

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

✨ Exciting kickoff! We just had our first brand identity & packaging session with Tsubaki Studio. Our vision for the world’s first fragrance publishing house dedicated to independent perfumery: think museum-level curation. Meanwhile, Chester has delivered four fragrance modifications — a major milestone — and we’re sourcing bottles and caps from Europe and Asia so Tsubaki can begin drafting our packaging.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Myromi, Art and Olfaction ’25, and Beast Mode Scents
2. Strictly Independent: Eris Parfums
3. Quiz: Fragrant Exports of the Comoros Islands
4. Scent MythBusters: The olfactive pyramid is the only valid way to understand fragrance

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

#MYROMITECHNOLOGY: Givaudan’s Myromi tackles product development with a patent-pending portable device featuring eight flavour channels. Users explore profiles, create blends and gather immediate feedback — rolling out throughout 2025.

#AWARDFINALISTS2025: The Institute for Art and Olfaction’s 11th annual awards showcase 30 finalists across Artisan, Independent and Experimental categories, spanning four continents. Winners announced 29th May in Los Angeles.

#BEASTMODEENGINEERING: Today’s enthusiasts seek powerful “beast mode” scents. Brands respond with solid perfumes in refillable containers, longevity-enhancer sprays and molecular technology like Haloscent® that adapts to skin chemistry. (Article by our reader Jack Filip.)

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 — Eris Parfums

Eris Parfums is the kind of American secret that makes you wonder how many olfactory treasures remain undiscovered. Founded by vintage-perfume lover Barbara Herman (2016) after interviewing master perfumer Antoine Lie for her book Scent and Subversion, it captures unconventional beauty and subversive glamour. Perfumer: Antoine Lie. Scents: 8.

Mxxx. — Gender Revolution. Ginger, saffron, vetiver and black pepper on a creamy bed of cedar and sandalwood, wrapped in cacao, benzoin and animalic castoreum. Perfumer: Antoine Lie.

Scorpio Rising — Astrological Intensity. An explosion of spices on a smouldering ambery base of woods, incense, smoke and leather — beautiful but dangerous. Perfumer: Antoine Lie.

Green Spell — Spring Enchantment. The greenest notes in perfumery — mandarin, blackcurrant bud, galbanum, violet leaf and narcissus over tomato and fig leaf accords. Perfumer: Antoine Lie.

Ma Bête — Animalic Elegance. Regal Tunisian neroli with spices and a 50% overdose of Antoine Lie’s own animalic cocktail — floral refinement meets primal sensuality.

Quiz 🎲

Which natural essential oil is regarded as one of the most chemically complex, containing over 350 identified compounds?
Vetiver · Patchouli · Sandalwood · Rosa damascena

Scent MythBusters 🎭️

“You have smelled an absolute so you know how the flower smells.”
Myth of the week

TL;DR

Flower absolutes capture only a snapshot of a flower’s complex aromatic profile. Tuberose, jasmine and gardenia vary dramatically depending on time of day, harvest conditions and environment — dimensions extraction cannot preserve. The absolute is an interpretation, not the complete story.

The reality check

Tuberose is nocturnal: as darkness falls, indoles intensify and the scent becomes headier, more narcotic, with a mushroom-like undertone largely absent during the day. Jasmine sambac at 5 AM contains different proportions of benzyl acetate, indole and linalool than at 10 PM. Most “gardenia” in perfumery isn’t gardenia absolute at all but a reconstruction.

So, is the myth busted?

Absolutely. An absolute is to a living flower what a photograph is to a feature film — it captures a moment but misses the movement and evolution. Visit a garden at midnight for the full, intoxicating performance.