Pick a Brand for Me at Esxence 2025

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know: Mark Buxton’s perfumery career began after showcasing his scent skills on the German quiz show Wetten, dass..? in 1984 — an appearance that landed him an offer from Haarmann & Reimer.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Co-Creation, Animalic Scents, and Blind-Buy Boom
2. Strictly Independent: Rosendo Mateu
3. Quiz: Which brand shall I visit at Esxence 2025?
4. Scent MythBusters: Master Perfumers must be officially certified

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

#SCENTCO-CREATION: IFF’s AI-powered ScentChat™ integrates real-time consumer feedback via WhatsApp and Messenger. Using semantic AI and NLP, it streamlines scent formulation, building a direct bridge between consumers and perfumers.

#ANIMALICREBELLION: As gourmand dominance continues, a wave of indie perfumers is reviving animalic fragrances — raw, sensual and rebellious. Brands like Papillon, BORNTOSTANDOUT and Eris Parfums champion these bold compositions, from synthetic musks to hyraceum.

#BLINDBUYBOOM: In the era of digital-first shopping, consumers are increasingly blind-buying scents — dropping hundreds without ever smelling them. Social media, striking bottle design and evocative storytelling now shape decisions as much as the juice itself.

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 — Rosendo Mateu

Rosendo Mateu left a lasting mark on the indie scene with his fresh, bold approach — infusing his scents with Mediterranean energy and a distinctly Spanish twist. Sadly, Rosendo Mateu passed away in 2022, yet his legacy lives on through his brand. Scents: 17.

5 — Floral, Amber, Sensual Musk. Saffron and lily-of-the-valley over garden carnation, drying into amber, tonka, vanilla, white musk and a hint of strawberry.

Incense Wood. Cinnamon and bergamot with cardamom, dark patchouli and soft sandalwood, settling into amber, vanilla, labdanum and white musk.

6 — Jasmin, Sandalwood, Oriental Musk. Bright jasmine sambac over creamy sandalwood, finished with oriental musk, amber and vanilla.

1970: Tonka, Expansion, Glamour. Citrus and ripe fruit into creamy tonka and soft chocolate, finished with caramel, amber and musk.

Quiz 🎲

Sebastian attended Esxence 2025 on Feb 19–20 and asked readers which brand he should visit and feature.

Scent MythBusters 🎭️

“Master Perfumers must be officially certified.”
Myth of the week

TL;DR

Unlike titles such as Master Sommelier or Meilleur Ouvrier de France, “Master Perfumer” is not an official, regulated designation. It’s an informal honorific earned through years of experience, artistic innovation and industry reputation — not via a standardised exam.

The reality check

There is no central authority or exam that awards the title. It’s a term of respect bestowed over decades by peers and mentors, and what qualifies as “mastery” varies among houses and experts.

The real path to mastery

Education and training (ISIPCA, Givaudan Perfumery School, Grasse Institute), on-the-job experience as a junior perfumer, and a unique artistic voice cultivated over time. The title is earned, not conferred.