China's ultra-niche sensation

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? In Wales, New Year’s cheer smells sweet — kids carry clove-studded “calennig” apples door to door, spreading luck and song.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: CaFleureBon, Extraction Toys, and too much scent
2. Strictly Independent: Bu Feng (China Special)
3. Scent MythBusters: Master Perfumer = Masterpieces
4. Quiz: Trending captive molecule
5. Scent Spotlight: Green Tea & Matcha Fragrances

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

#CAFLEUREBON: With over 6,000 launches, 2024 pushed boundaries — gourmand notes like croissant and puff pastry, lychee and cherry in fruity blends, salt beyond marine scents, and coffee fragrances gaining ground. Highlights: Sarah Baker’s Peach’s Revenge and Dusita’s Pelagos.

#SCENTTOYS: MANE’s Jungle Essence™ technology redefines extraction by capturing the true essence of natural and artificial materials instantly — a portable, eco-friendly tool for on-the-spot processing.

#TOOMUCHSCENT: Sainte Cellier exposed a hard truth: too many launches, too little impact. The constant churn leaves consumers overwhelmed, sparking calls for a return to thoughtful, intentional releases.

Strictly Independent 🇨🇳 — Bu Feng

An ultra-niche, perfumer-led brand from China, exclusively available in Europe through 15West. All perfumers are classically trained — Lan Xiao was CFA’s Perfumer of the Year in 2023 — crafting fragrances rooted in cultural heritage. Each perfume features a protagonist from a real Wuxia (Chinese knighthood) story.

Drunken Jade. Inspired by poet-philosopher Ji Kang. Top: aldehydes, sweet grapes. Heart: labdanum, benzoin, thyme. Base: cedarwood, guaiacwood.

Elegant Jade. Inspired by scholar Wang Yan. Top: almond. Heart: jasmine, ylang-ylang. Base: rue, white sandalwood.

Holding the Sword. Dedicated to strategist Cao Cao — Scently’s favourite. Top: metal. Heart: saffron, crimson glory rose. Base: cedarwood, blood.

Scent MythBusters 🎭️

“Master perfumers always create masterpieces.”
Myth of the week

TL;DR

Even giants like Olivier Cresp admit that out of 400 creations, 80% were flops and 20% successes — sometimes 600+ trials for a single scent. “Failures” are inevitable, and often instrumental, in forging true innovation.

Why so many flops?

Market saturation, fast-changing trends, brand constraints (strict briefs, budgets), and timing/marketing all matter as much as artistic brilliance. Reaching “master perfumer” is like hitting the pinnacle of professional sport — even the greatest don’t win every match.

Scent Spotlight: Green Tea & Matcha 🍵

Green tea and matcha accords capture the fresh, grassy aroma of brewed tea, gaining popularity in the 1990s alongside global tea culture. Built from green tea absolute, matcha extract and green aroma-chemicals like hedione and galbanum, plus citrus and florals. Styles range from classic crisp green tea, to creamy matcha, herbal tea blends, smoky Lapsang-inspired and floral tea.